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Diner Delights | Restaurant Critiques | Salt Lake Metropolis


ALEX SPRINGER

There’s one thing hopeful about watching a former fast-food joint be reborn as an area restaurant. In this case, I’m speaking about Dolly Donuts (3245 S. State Street, 385-355-9904, dollydonut.com). This extremely anticipated South Salt Lake restaurant lately opened subsequent to the Century 16 movie show on 3300 South in a spot that was once a Wendy’s (if my reminiscence serves). When I noticed the retro signage that touted all the things from doughnuts to fried hen to the fabled Juicy Lucy cheeseburger—together with beer and cocktails in addition—I needed to verify this place out sooner relatively than later.

The complete idea of Dolly Donuts is a little bit of an oddity to me, which is what attracts me to a restaurant within the first place. Here we have now a renovated fast-food spot that’s serving up a menu of American diner classics, a variety of home made doughnuts and loads of locally-sourced beer. On the within, flat-screen TVs play music movies from the ’60s and ’70s, and carhop diners of days passed by stay on within the framed images that adorn the partitions. Aesthetically, it is a love letter to all these burger joints that paved the best way for the fast-food mega firms that span the globe at the moment.

As fascinating as it’s to chew via all of the gastro-socio-cultural layers that make up the muse of Dolly Donuts, the expertise of chewing via their menu was my major order of enterprise. The Juicy Lucy cheeseburger ($11.99) was on the prime of my listing, because it’s type of a legend within the annals of burger historical past. For these of you who’re unaware of the Juicy Lucy’s affect on culinary historical past, it is a fats burger patty that’s filled with cheese earlier than it hits the grill, creating a very gooey and tacky burger expertise. The idea comes from Minneapolis, Minn., the place a bitter feud continues to rage amongst rival burger joints who declare to have created the Juicy Lucy first. Nothing enhances a burger’s favourite like a little bit of historic drama.

The Juicy Lucy at Dolly Donuts is a beautiful burger to make certain. The thick, tacky patty sits on a mattress of lettuce, tomato and pink onion, all contained inside a golden toasted bun. I sliced the burger in half to get the total impact of the Juicy Lucy’s molten core, and I used to be not dissatisfied as I watched the entire savory present unfold on my plate. The cheese seems to merge with the patty’s juices on a molecular stage, and it is a actually lovely sight. Those who take pleasure in cheeseburgers that lean into their innate gooeyness shall be in burger paradise with the Juicy Lucy. On prime of that, it is a burger that has been completely seasoned in the course of the grilling course of—sure, the liquid golden middle is divine, however it’s not the one factor that brings taste to the desk with this burger.

I used to be additionally curious in regards to the hen sandwich ($11.99), since I’m nonetheless holding a private tally of the very best fried hen sandwiches round city. It’s a decently sized fried hen breast on a toasted bun—or a doughnut, if it pleases you—with some purple cabbage slaw and a drizzle of particular sauce that smacked of buffalo wings. Overall, it is a completely serviceable hen sandwich—the breading evokes the identical easy pleasure of the hen tenders you may get on the county truthful. It’s good, however I’d place it within the center to low rating of my very own private hen sandwich spectrum.

Breakfast at Dolly Donuts contains classics like French toast ($8.99) and biscuits & gravy ($8.99), however everyone knows that the breakfast sandwich ($8.99) is the place diners actually shine within the morning. They supply loads of customization choices together with sort of bun—English muffins, croissants or doughnuts—and breakfast protein. I went with ham, egg and cheddar on an English muffin, and the consequence was good however not nice. I used to be general proud of the breakfast sandwich, however, just like the hen sandwich, it is not too exhausting to search out one thing a bit higher for a bit cheaper round city.

On my manner out, I picked up a half dozen doughnuts that I shared with my household later that night. Some standouts of my batch have been the blueberry lemon poppyseed cake doughnuts ($1.75) and the cream-filled Bismark doughnuts ($2.75), which have been delightfully overstuffed with vanilla pastry cream. The place is named Dolly Donuts for a cause, and I believe their doughnut recipes simply launch the place into the higher echelons of Utah’s doughnut empire. Plus, there is a drive-through, so South Salt Lake doughnut runs simply bought simpler.

I had a number of gripes about Dolly Doughnuts when it got here to some entrees, however the place has solely been open for round two months—there are nonetheless loads of issues that it is determining, and I respect that. That mentioned, a spot with glorious burgers, doughnuts to go and a captivating nod to the diner tradition of a bygone period is welcome in my neighborhood any time.




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